Mega Smol Hubs

Introducing V2! (11/24/2024) V1 (with spokes) V2 (no spokes) The main issue I was having with v1 was the entire tire would get ripped off during a hit instead of just a small chunk. This was fixed by removing the spokes entirely and enlarging the base of the hub. This provides plenty of surface area…

Banshee Battle Tunes

Hello Banshee fans! Looking for some new tunes? We have a Spotify playlist dedicated to the bot! In this playlist, you’ll find some heavy banshee-themed tracks, some of David Small’s favorite folk metal songs, and a handful of other metal songs that embody the spirit of everyone’s favorite screaming ghost lady. I’m always looking for…

The Highlander V9

Time for another Highlander! Starting things off with a fresh nylon print. Nylon loves to curl, so these “lily pads” are added to keep the part from curling during the printing process, then are snipped off after. I also decided to make the baseplate its own part since carbon fiber is much more rigid than…

The Highlander V8

Version 8 involved learning how to print Taulman’s Bridge Nylon myself. It’s a huge pain to print, mainly because the diameter of the filament isn’t constant. But after a ton of trial and error I got some decent results. Certainly not as good as Isaak’s prints, but it’ll hopefully get the job done. The other…

Morag, a 30lb Full Combat Pneumatic Flipper

We start with the custom ram I designed to handle the 900+ psi pressure of the robot’s HPA system. The ram and the buffer tank were hydotested to 150% its operating pressure to ensure safe use. Previous Next Adding the keyways to the BaneBots hubs Previous Next The black piece is the base of the…

The Highlander V7

As cool as the TiLander was, it wasn’t the best at taking hits and, more importantly, replacing parts is expensive. My friend Isaak Malers has been working tirelessly the last few years trying to make 3d printed chassis’s viable in antweights. After showing me how flexible printed nylon is, I decided to design the next…